A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the right course to effective sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to very great. The table listed below contains all the info you will require to select the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely adequate. However, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Repairing:.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely normal and practise makes best. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal mix.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a gentle however constant pressure until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
File to end up.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to very fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.

Beginning to Saw:.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to relax. Also dont be lured to force the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

Conserve this for later on.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely helping to guarantee a precise result every time.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage need to face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to reveal the tension is right. If you do not hear the ping simply undo and repeat the process once again until its best. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will lead to it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to preserve a mild and stable action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

Troubleshooting:.

Piercing.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability before you purchase.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points).

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a newbie.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Tools for Piercing: There are lots of different ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the exact same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright, the most important thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge variety of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

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