There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into tough areas.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic function size for small scale projects, but the choice is down to personal preference.
Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the correct path to effective sawing every time.
When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will only take basic size blades as they are offered.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally great. The table listed below contains all the info you will require to pick the proper blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly sufficient. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Installing a blade into a saw:
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage need to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinctive ping to reveal the tension is proper. If you dont hear the ping just reverse and duplicate the procedure again until its right. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a newbie.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately rotate the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to use effectively.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points).
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Starting to Saw:.
The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely typical and practise makes best. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.
Once your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a mild however continuous pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
File to complete.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly helping to guarantee an exact result every time.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.
Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and try to relax. Also do not be lured to require the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to preserve a stable and mild action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
Save this for later on.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability prior to you buy.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and allow the tools to cool down.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.