A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

https://www.cooksongold.com/blog/learn/a-guide-to-sawing-piercing/

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Another decision you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are offered.

Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first major tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the improvement of a basic sheet of metal into something totally different and holds endless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the proper path to successful sawing each time.

There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to exceptionally fine. The table below includes all the info you will require to select the right blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly appropriate. Nevertheless, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is pressed down and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.

Troubleshooting:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with ought to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes ideal. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal combination.

The drill keeps walking around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points).

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to preserve a gentle and consistent action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

Conserve this for later.

Piercing.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a beginner.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge variety of various accessories including drill bits.

Beginning to Saw:.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however constant pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
File to complete.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is right and try to relax. Do not be lured to require the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Troubleshooting:.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely assisting to make sure an accurate result every time.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability prior to you purchase.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *