A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will just take standard size blades as they are offered.

There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the improvement of a basic sheet of metal into something completely various and holds limitless possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually created this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the correct course to successful sawing whenever.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. The table below contains all the info you will need to choose the proper blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine must be completely adequate. However, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Installing a blade into a saw:

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Piercing.

Tools for Piercing: There are various methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the same. The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist ease the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to maintain a gentle and constant action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a novice.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool down.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their suitability before you purchase.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely normal and practise makes ideal. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal mix.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big variety of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

Troubleshooting:.

Starting to Saw:.

Repairing:.

The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to guide the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a mild but constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
File to finish.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to relax. Dont be tempted to require the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pushed down and drew back as much as turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to use successfully.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points).

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage ought to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to reveal the tension is proper. If you dont hear the ping simply undo and repeat the process again up until its right. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely helping to guarantee an exact outcome each time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

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Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

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