Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic purpose size for small scale tasks, however the choice is down to personal choice.
When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.
Saw piercing is likely to be among the first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the transformation of a simple sheet of metal into something completely various and holds endless possibilities. Although the majority of us recognize with the principle of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have created this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the proper course to successful sawing whenever.
There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase advanced variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into difficult areas.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the info you will require to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely sufficient. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Setting up a blade into a saw:
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pushed down and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to use successfully.
Tools for Piercing: There are several methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the very same. The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to direct the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a continuous but gentle pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
Submit to finish.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to preserve a gentle and stable action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with must face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinctive ping to show the tension is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping merely reverse and duplicate the process again up until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Conserve this for later on.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be tough or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.
Beginning to Saw:.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. Inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the correct blade size/metal mix.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an exact result whenever.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability before you purchase.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge range of different attachments including drill bits.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is right and attempt to unwind. Also dont be lured to require the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a newbie.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool off.