When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will only take standard size blades as they are offered.
There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the appropriate path to effective sawing every time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table below contains all the information you will need to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely appropriate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to maintain a gentle and steady action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big series of various accessories consisting of drill bits.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also prone to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle should face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for an unique ping to show the tension is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping simply reverse and duplicate the process once again up until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to unwind. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a beginner.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability prior to you purchase.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure a precise result each time.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely regular and practise makes best. Nevertheless, inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make certain you are using the correct blade size/metal combination.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
Defining and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points). If you wish to transfer a more complex design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Then before transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. When you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal, eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a constant however mild pressure till all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again as soon as sawing is complete.
Submit to complete.
The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to assist the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.
Save this for later on.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool down.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately rotate the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.
Starting to Saw:.