A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw piercing is most likely to be among the very first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the improvement of an easy sheet of metal into something totally various and holds limitless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the right course to effective sawing whenever.

Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will only take standard size blades as they are sold.

There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely fine. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the details you will need to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly appropriate. However, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Installing a blade into a saw:

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely regular and practise makes ideal. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal mix.

Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be hard or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely assisting to ensure a precise outcome every time.

The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a continuous but gentle pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
File to complete.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Save this for later.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge range of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Do not be lured to require the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their suitability before you purchase.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Starting to Saw:.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Piercing.

Troubleshooting:.

Repairing:.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points).

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to guide the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pushed down and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a beginner.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to preserve a consistent and mild action.
As soon as the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with must face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push carefully against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinctive ping to show the stress is proper. If you do not hear the ping simply undo and repeat the process again up until its best. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

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