Another decision you require to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will only take basic size blades as they are offered.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing every time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely fine. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table below contains all the information you will need to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely appropriate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Installing a blade into a saw:
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and push down with a constant however mild pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
File to finish.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to keep a gentle and consistent action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Tools for Piercing: There are various methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the exact same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright, the most important thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely typical and practise makes best. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal mix.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to relax. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with ought to face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push gently against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for an unique ping to show the tension is correct. If you dont hear the ping just reverse and repeat the procedure again till its. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pushed down and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to use effectively.
Conserve this for later on.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability prior to you purchase.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly helping to ensure an exact outcome each time.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is produced with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a beginner.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points).
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be hard or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool down.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of different accessories consisting of drill bits.
Beginning to Saw:.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to direct the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.