Another choice you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will just take standard size blades as they are offered.
There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the right path to effective sawing every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general function size for small scale jobs, however the choice is down to personal choice.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly great. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the info you will require to choose the correct blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly adequate. However, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to make sure an exact outcome whenever.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge series of various attachments including drill bits.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage ought to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinct ping to show the tension is proper. If you dont hear the ping just reverse and repeat the procedure once again until its right. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will lead to it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and allow the tools to cool down.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their viability before you purchase.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to very fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes ideal. Nevertheless, check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal combination.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however constant pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again as soon as sawing is total.
Submit to complete.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Starting to Saw:.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Conserve this for later on.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you desire to transfer a more intricate style onto metal. Prior to moving to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help relieve the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to maintain a consistent and gentle action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a novice.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and attempt to unwind. Also dont be tempted to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pressed down and drew back approximately rotate the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to utilize efficiently.