A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into hard locations.

Sawing

Saw piercing is likely to be among the first major tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the first step in the change of a basic sheet of metal into something totally various and holds limitless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the right path to successful sawing whenever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to extremely fine. The table listed below includes all the details you will need to select the right blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly sufficient. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle ought to face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push carefully against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Dont be tempted to require the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

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My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability prior to you purchase.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to utilize efficiently.

The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to direct the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge series of different attachments including drill bits.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a beginner.

The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool off.

Troubleshooting:.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points).

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Repairing:.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help relieve the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to preserve a constant and gentle action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

Piercing.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely assisting to ensure an exact outcome every time.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely normal and practise makes best. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal mix.

Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.

Beginning to Saw:.

When your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but constant pressure until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again once sawing is complete.
File to end up.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

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