A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the correct path to successful sawing every time.

There have been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase advanced versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into tough locations.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to extremely great. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table below contains all the information you will need to choose the proper blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly appropriate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Fixing:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their suitability prior to you buy.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to use effectively.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle must face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinctive ping to reveal the tension is correct. If you do not hear the ping simply undo and duplicate the procedure again until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to maintain a mild and constant action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly normal and practise makes best. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal combination.

Beginning to Saw:.

Save this for later on.

Troubleshooting:.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

Tools for Piercing: There are numerous different methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the very same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright, the most important thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly helping to ensure an exact result whenever.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big series of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Piercing.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a newbie.

When your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a gentle however continuous pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again as soon as sawing is complete.
Submit to end up.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool down.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and try to relax. Likewise do not be lured to require the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points).

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

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