There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw piercing is likely to be one of the first major tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the change of a simple sheet of metal into something totally different and holds endless possibilities. Although most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little unstable in the beginning, which is why we have actually created this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the correct course to successful sawing each time.
When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good basic purpose size for small scale projects, but the choice is down to personal preference.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to extremely great. The table below contains all the info you will need to choose the right blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely sufficient. Nevertheless, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back up to turn the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to utilize efficiently.
The drill keeps walking around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to direct the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.
Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright, the most important thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help relieve the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to maintain a mild and steady action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
Conserve this for later on.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a novice.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage ought to face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinct ping to reveal the stress is proper. If you do not hear the ping simply undo and repeat the process once again up until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points). If you wish to transfer a more complex style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular. Before moving to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal.
Beginning to Saw:.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to a location which would otherwise be tough or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly typical and practise makes best. Inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal combination.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely assisting to make sure an accurate outcome every time.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
When your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a mild however continuous pressure until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
Submit to finish.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability before you purchase.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and try to relax. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool down.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.