Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the very first major tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the first action in the transformation of a simple sheet of metal into something completely various and holds endless possibilities. Although most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental in the beginning, which is why we have actually assembled this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the proper course to successful sawing each time.
When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.
There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire advanced versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into difficult locations.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general purpose size for little scale projects, however the option is down to personal choice.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to very fine. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the information you will require to choose the proper blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely appropriate. However, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Installing a blade into a saw:
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal combination.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pressed down and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to use effectively.
Starting to Saw:.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
When your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a constant however gentle pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again when sawing is total.
Submit to complete.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Defining and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points). If you desire to transfer a more complicated style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular. Before moving to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have re-traced the design onto the metal.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and attempt to relax. Likewise do not be tempted to require the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of different accessories consisting of drill bits.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability prior to you buy.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for exclusively that purpose. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely helping to make sure a precise outcome each time.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage should face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push gently against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help relieve the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to keep a stable and mild action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.
Tools for Piercing: There are various methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical, the most crucial thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a broad variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and enable the tools to cool off.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a beginner.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Conserve this for later on.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.