Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing every time.
There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will just take standard size blades as they are sold.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. The table listed below contains all the details you will need to choose the proper blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly adequate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes ideal. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal mix.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Conserve this for later on.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Starting to Saw:.
The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pressed down and drew back up to turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to relax. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with 2 points). If you wish to move a more complex style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Prior to transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. When you have re-traced the style onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.
The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
When your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a mild however continuous pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
File to end up.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge series of different attachments including drill bits.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability before you purchase.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool off.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to preserve a gentle and constant action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that purpose. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly helping to guarantee an accurate result every time.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with must face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a beginner.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.