A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing every time.

Sawing

Another decision you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will just take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic purpose size for small scale projects, but the choice is down to personal preference.

There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into difficult locations.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely great. The table below contains all the details you will require to choose the correct blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely appropriate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Conserve this for later on.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.

Beginning to Saw:.

The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Dont be lured to require the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to assist the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability before you buy.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely assisting to make sure a precise outcome whenever.

Repairing:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage ought to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

Repairing:.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to very fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but constant pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again once sawing is total.
File to complete.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a newbie.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Piercing.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool down.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly typical and practise makes best. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal mix.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help ease the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to keep a gentle and steady action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge range of different accessories including drill bits.

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