A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Another decision you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the first significant jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the change of an easy sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds limitless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the right path to successful sawing whenever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to very great. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the information you will need to select the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine must be completely appropriate. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Installing a blade into a saw:

The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Piercing.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an exact result whenever.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to maintain a stable and mild action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a newbie.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Repairing:.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Do not be lured to require the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.

When your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous however mild pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
File to end up.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability before you buy.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage need to face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge range of various accessories consisting of drill bits.

Repairing:.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pressed down and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Defining and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with 2 points). If you wish to move a more complex design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Then prior to moving to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and permit the tools to cool down.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

The drill keeps walking around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely normal and practise makes perfect. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal mix.

Starting to Saw:.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.

Save this for later.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

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