A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Another decision you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first significant jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the first step in the transformation of a basic sheet of metal into something entirely various and holds unlimited possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the correct course to successful sawing each time.

Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into challenging locations.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to very fine. The table listed below contains all the info you will require to pick the right blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely adequate. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Setting up a blade into a saw:

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Starting to Saw:.

Repairing:.

The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but continuous pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again when sawing is total.
Submit to finish.

Save this for later on.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage must face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely assisting to make sure a precise outcome each time.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big variety of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability prior to you purchase.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.

Fixing:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a beginner.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Dont be lured to require the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points). If you wish to move a more intricate design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Before transferring to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have re-traced the style onto the metal.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to direct the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly normal and practise makes perfect. However, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pressed down and pulled back approximately rotate the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use efficiently.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help ease the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to keep a mild and steady action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.

Piercing.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

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