A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are offered.

There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good basic purpose size for little scale projects, however the choice is down to individual preference.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely great. The table listed below consists of all the details you will need to choose the correct blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly adequate. Nevertheless, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize frequently.

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Installing a blade into a saw:

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Repairing:.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability before you buy.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool off.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely helping to make sure an exact result whenever.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.

Fixing:.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and attempt to relax. Also dont be tempted to force the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points).

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely regular and practise makes best. Nevertheless, inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make certain you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal mix.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with must face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinctive ping to show the tension is right. If you do not hear the ping simply undo and repeat the procedure once again until its right. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help reduce the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to maintain a gentle and constant action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Beginning to Saw:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a newbie.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial series of different attachments consisting of drill bits.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Save this for later on.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and push down with a gentle however continuous pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
File to finish.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pushed down and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to use effectively.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Piercing.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

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