A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

https://www.cooksongold.com/blog/learn/a-guide-to-sawing-piercing/

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first major jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the first action in the transformation of a simple sheet of metal into something totally various and holds endless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the correct course to effective sawing each time.

When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will just take basic size blades as they are offered.

There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase advanced versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into tough locations.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally great. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table below includes all the info you will require to choose the proper blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine must be completely appropriate. Nevertheless, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Installing a blade into a saw:

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be hard or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure a precise outcome whenever.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to keep a gentle and stable action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool down.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pushed down and drew back up to turn the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points).

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to direct the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and push down with a mild however constant pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again.
Submit to finish.

The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage need to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push carefully against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinct ping to show the tension is proper. If you dont hear the ping just undo and duplicate the procedure again until its best. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Beginning to Saw:.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Do not be lured to require the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability prior to you buy.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge series of various accessories including drill bits.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is produced with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a beginner.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Troubleshooting:.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely regular and practise makes ideal. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

Save this for later.

Piercing.

Fixing:.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *