Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic function size for small scale tasks, but the option is down to individual preference.
When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.
There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into tough areas.
Saw piercing is likely to be one of the first significant jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the first action in the change of a simple sheet of metal into something totally different and holds unlimited possibilities. Although most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental initially, which is why we have actually created this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the right path to effective sawing whenever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. The table below contains all the details you will need to select the correct blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly adequate. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Installing a blade into a saw:
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely assisting to make sure an exact outcome whenever.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and try to unwind. Do not be lured to force the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points). If you wish to transfer a more complicated design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Before moving to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability prior to you purchase.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright, the most important thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a continuous but gentle pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
File to complete.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help ease the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to keep a mild and constant action.
When the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to utilize effectively.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely typical and practise makes best. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal mix.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and permit the tools to cool down.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to guide the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with ought to face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
Starting to Saw:.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
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Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a newbie.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge series of different attachments consisting of drill bits.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.