Another decision you need to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are offered.
There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the right course to effective sawing every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic purpose size for small scale projects, but the choice is down to personal choice.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. The table listed below consists of all the details you will need to pick the correct blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly sufficient. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Installing a blade into a saw:
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Save this for later on.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to relax. Also do not be lured to require the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you want to move a more intricate design onto metal. Then before transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. As soon as you have re-traced the design onto the metal, eliminate the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability prior to you buy.
Beginning to Saw:.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool off.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
File to finish.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes best. However, check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal mix.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with should face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinct ping to show the stress is right. If you dont hear the ping merely reverse and duplicate the procedure again till its. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Tools for Piercing: There are many different methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the very same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical, the most crucial thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an accurate outcome whenever.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a beginner.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to keep a steady and mild action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pushed down and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to use effectively.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge series of different accessories including drill bits.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to a location which would otherwise be tough or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.