Another choice you require to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will just take standard size blades as they are sold.
Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
There have been some new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to very fine. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the details you will need to choose the proper blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly adequate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.
Installing a blade into a saw:
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to guide the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely regular and practise makes ideal. Nevertheless, examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make certain you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal mix.
Starting to Saw:.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage need to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of various accessories including drill bits.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a constant but gentle pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again as soon as sawing is total.
File to finish.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a newbie.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability before you buy.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure an accurate result every time.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pushed down and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to relax. Dont be tempted to require the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you desire to move a more complex style onto metal. Prior to moving to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have re-traced the style onto the metal.
Save this for later.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help relieve the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to preserve a stable and mild action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.