A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the appropriate course to successful sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

Another decision you need to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into difficult locations.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to very fine. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table below includes all the information you will require to choose the correct blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly appropriate. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Beginning to Saw:.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure a precise outcome each time.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a novice.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely normal and practise makes perfect. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal mix.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and permit the tools to cool off.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pushed down and drew back as much as turn the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to utilize efficiently.

Repairing:.

When your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but constant pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again as soon as sawing is total.
File to end up.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle ought to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for an unique ping to show the stress is correct. If you do not hear the ping just reverse and duplicate the process once again up until its. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to relax. Also do not be lured to force the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Piercing.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Fixing:.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to keep a mild and steady action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Save this for later.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points).

Tools for Piercing: There are many different ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the exact same. The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

The drill keeps moving around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to guide the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability before you purchase.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge range of different attachments including drill bits.

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