Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the proper course to successful sawing every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.
There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into tough areas.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to very fine. The table listed below consists of all the details you will require to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely sufficient. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Starting to Saw:.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and attempt to relax. Also dont be tempted to require the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.
The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be hard or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
When your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but constant pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again.
File to finish.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also prone to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with should face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to reveal the tension is correct. If you dont hear the ping simply reverse and repeat the process once again up until its right. (Failure to secure your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a beginner.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool off.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to keep a steady and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big range of different attachments including drill bits.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely assisting to ensure an accurate outcome whenever.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points). If you desire to move a more intricate design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Prior to moving to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Once you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly regular and practise makes ideal. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the correct blade size/metal combination.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability before you buy.
The drill keeps walking around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to guide the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Conserve this for later on.