There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Another decision you need to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will just take basic size blades as they are offered.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic purpose size for little scale projects, however the option is down to personal choice.
Saw piercing is likely to be among the first major jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the transformation of a simple sheet of metal into something totally various and holds limitless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the correct path to effective sawing each time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. The table below consists of all the info you will require to pick the correct blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly sufficient. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Installing a blade into a saw:
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with must face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a novice.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool off.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big series of different attachments including drill bits.
The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to assist the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points). If you desire to transfer a more intricate design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Then before moving to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. When you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to use successfully.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Tools for Piercing: There are several methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the same. The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
When your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and push down with a gentle but continuous pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
File to complete.
Conserve this for later on.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist alleviate the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to keep a consistent and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly normal and practise makes best. However, inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the correct blade size/metal combination.
Starting to Saw:.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to ensure an accurate outcome whenever.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability prior to you buy.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to unwind. Do not be lured to require the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.