There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will just take standard size blades as they are offered.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to very fine. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table below includes all the information you will require to select the appropriate blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely adequate. However, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Installing a blade into a saw:
Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the same. The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a novice.
When your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a constant but gentle pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again when sawing is total.
File to finish.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability prior to you buy.
Conserve this for later on.
Starting to Saw:.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Also dont be tempted to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help reduce the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to preserve a mild and constant action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pushed down and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to use successfully.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. Inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal combination.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to a location which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of different attachments including drill bits.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with must face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure an accurate outcome every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Defining and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical if you want to move a more complex style onto metal. Before moving to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Once you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool off.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.