There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into tough areas.
Another decision you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will only take standard size blades as they are sold.
Saw piercing is most likely to be among the very first major tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the change of a simple sheet of metal into something totally different and holds unlimited possibilities. Although the majority of us recognize with the idea of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable initially, which is why we have actually created this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the proper course to successful sawing every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to extremely fine. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the details you will need to select the right blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly sufficient. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.
Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a gentle but continuous pressure until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again when sawing is total.
Submit to complete.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability prior to you buy.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Starting to Saw:.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of different accessories including drill bits.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage must face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a novice.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist relieve the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to maintain a mild and constant action.
When the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.
Save this for later on.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for exclusively that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly helping to ensure a precise outcome whenever.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool off.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Defining and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you desire to transfer a more intricate style onto metal. Then before transferring to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. When you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal, eliminate the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to relax. Also dont be tempted to force the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.