A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw piercing is likely to be one of the first major tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the improvement of a basic sheet of metal into something totally various and holds limitless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the right course to successful sawing each time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic purpose size for little scale tasks, however the option is down to personal choice.

Another decision you need to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly great. The table listed below contains all the details you will need to select the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly sufficient. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Installing a blade into a saw:

Piercing.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to relax. Dont be lured to force the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability before you purchase.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely normal and practise makes perfect. However, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a novice.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with ought to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Save this for later.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to preserve a gentle and consistent action.
As soon as the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and enable the tools to cool off.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and push down with a gentle however continuous pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again when sawing is total.
File to finish.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pressed down and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to use efficiently.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely assisting to guarantee an accurate outcome each time.

Fixing:.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big variety of various accessories consisting of drill bits.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points).

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Fixing:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to direct the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.

Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the exact same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical, the most crucial thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Starting to Saw:.

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