A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the correct course to effective sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into challenging areas.

Sawing

Another choice you require to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are offered.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to very fine. The table below contains all the info you will require to select the right blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly sufficient. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Installing a blade into a saw:

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Do not be lured to force the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Fixing:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a newbie.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Piercing.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for exclusively that function. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly helping to guarantee an accurate outcome each time.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability before you buy.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage need to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push gently versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinctive ping to reveal the stress is right. If you dont hear the ping merely undo and repeat the process again till its ideal. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous however mild pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again when sawing is total.
File to end up.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to keep a stable and mild action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool off.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.

Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright, the most essential thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pushed down and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to use successfully.

Troubleshooting:.

The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.

Conserve this for later.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely regular and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal mix.

Starting to Saw:.

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