A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into difficult locations.

Another choice you require to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are sold.

Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the right course to successful sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the info you will require to select the right blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely appropriate. Nevertheless, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Installing a blade into a saw:

Starting to Saw:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability before you purchase.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to very great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to direct the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

Save this for later on.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and enable the tools to cool down.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points).

Piercing.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a newbie.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with ought to face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to reveal the stress is right. If you do not hear the ping merely reverse and repeat the process once again till its ideal. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly typical and practise makes best. However, examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal mix.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a broad variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pressed down and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.

Troubleshooting:.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a constant but mild pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again once sawing is total.
File to finish.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to keep a steady and mild action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.

Repairing:.

The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to relax. Dont be tempted to force the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely assisting to guarantee an accurate outcome every time.

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