Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the proper course to effective sawing every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic function size for small scale tasks, but the option is down to individual preference.
Another choice you require to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.
There have been some new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into challenging locations.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to incredibly great. The table listed below includes all the info you will need to pick the correct blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly sufficient. Nevertheless, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Installing a blade into a saw:
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of different accessories consisting of drill bits.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool down.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help relieve the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to preserve a mild and constant action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a beginner.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and attempt to unwind. Also dont be lured to require the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability prior to you purchase.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Starting to Saw:.
The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely assisting to ensure an accurate result each time.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points).
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage should face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinct ping to reveal the stress is correct. If you dont hear the ping simply reverse and duplicate the procedure again until its best. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Conserve this for later on.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to an area which would otherwise be tough or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to use successfully.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a mild however continuous pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again once sawing is total.
Submit to finish.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely regular and practise makes ideal. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal mix.