A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a range of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into challenging areas.

Sawing

Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the correct course to effective sawing every time.

When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good basic purpose size for small scale jobs, but the choice is down to individual preference.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to extremely great. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table below consists of all the info you will need to choose the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly adequate. Nevertheless, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Installing a blade into a saw:

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage need to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is pushed down and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

Repairing:.

The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial series of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you want to transfer a more complex style onto metal. Then prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.

Save this for later on.

Starting to Saw:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability prior to you purchase.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to relax. Dont be lured to require the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Tools for Piercing: There are several methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright, the most essential thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a constant but mild pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again when sawing is complete.
Submit to complete.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Repairing:.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly helping to guarantee an accurate result whenever.

Piercing.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to an area which would otherwise be hard or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to preserve a steady and gentle action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly regular and practise makes best. However, check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal combination.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a newbie.

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