A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the right course to successful sawing every time.

Another decision you need to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good basic function size for little scale tasks, but the choice is down to individual choice.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly great. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below consists of all the information you will need to select the right blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine should be completely appropriate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Installing a blade into a saw:

The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.

Repairing:.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to relax. Likewise dont be lured to require the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with must face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinct ping to reveal the stress is proper. If you do not hear the ping simply reverse and repeat the procedure again till its right. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Save this for later.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge series of different attachments consisting of drill bits.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to keep a constant and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Beginning to Saw:.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability prior to you buy.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes best. However, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but mild pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again.
File to complete.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a beginner.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and allow the tools to cool down.

Tools for Piercing: There are various methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. The most essential thing to bear in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that purpose. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to ensure an accurate outcome every time.

Piercing.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).

Fixing:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

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