When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw piercing is most likely to be among the very first major tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the improvement of an easy sheet of metal into something totally different and holds limitless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the right path to effective sawing whenever.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic purpose size for small scale jobs, however the option is down to individual preference.
There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to very great. The table below contains all the details you will need to pick the proper blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely adequate. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Installing a blade into a saw:
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to maintain a gentle and stable action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of different accessories consisting of drill bits.
Beginning to Saw:.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool down.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability before you buy.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a beginner.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage ought to face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for an unique ping to show the tension is correct. If you do not hear the ping merely reverse and duplicate the procedure once again till its best. (Failure to protect your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly helping to ensure an accurate outcome each time.
The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to guide the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and push down with a continuous but gentle pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again as soon as sawing is total.
File to end up.
Save this for later.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly normal and practise makes best. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal combination.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to relax. Do not be tempted to require the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Tools for Piercing: There are several methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright, the most important thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.