A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Another choice you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic purpose size for small scale jobs, however the option is down to individual preference.

Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the very first significant tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the improvement of a basic sheet of metal into something entirely various and holds endless possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable in the beginning, which is why we have created this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the correct path to successful sawing whenever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly great. The table listed below consists of all the info you will need to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly sufficient. Nevertheless, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Setting up a blade into a saw:

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage ought to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a beginner.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is pressed down and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.

Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to keep a consistent and mild action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you want to transfer a more complicated design onto metal. Prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. As soon as you have re-traced the design onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.

Fixing:.

Piercing.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and try to relax. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Beginning to Saw:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also prone to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to direct the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous however mild pressure until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again once sawing is total.
Submit to end up.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability before you buy.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely normal and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the correct blade size/metal combination.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely assisting to make sure a precise outcome every time.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of various attachments including drill bits.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

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Troubleshooting:.

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