A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the proper course to effective sawing every time.

Sawing

When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will just take basic size blades as they are offered.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly great. The table listed below contains all the details you will need to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly adequate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Installing a blade into a saw:

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pushed down and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Defining and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical if you desire to transfer a more intricate style onto metal. Then prior to transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have re-traced the design onto the metal.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to ensure an exact result every time.

When your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but continuous pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again as soon as sawing is complete.
Submit to end up.

Fixing:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge range of different accessories including drill bits.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely regular and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make certain you are using the right blade size/metal mix.

Starting to Saw:.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool off.

The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.

Save this for later on.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a beginner.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help relieve the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to maintain a mild and constant action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage should face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinctive ping to show the stress is proper. If you do not hear the ping simply undo and duplicate the procedure once again till its. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to extremely great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability prior to you buy.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and try to relax. Likewise dont be tempted to force the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Piercing.

Fixing:.

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