Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the right path to effective sawing every time.
Another choice you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into tough locations.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly fine. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the information you will require to pick the proper blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly adequate. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Installing a blade into a saw:
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to a location which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.
Defining and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points). If you desire to transfer a more complicated style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Then prior to moving to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool down.
Beginning to Saw:.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for exclusively that function. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to ensure an accurate result each time.
The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to guide the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage must face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly normal and practise makes ideal. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal mix.
Save this for later on.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help alleviate the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to preserve a mild and constant action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a novice.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability prior to you buy.
Tools for Piercing: There are numerous various methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical, the most essential thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big range of different attachments including drill bits.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Dont be lured to require the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Once your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but mild pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
File to finish.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is pushed down and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to use efficiently.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.