A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Another decision you require to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into hard areas.

Saw piercing is most likely to be among the very first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the improvement of an easy sheet of metal into something completely various and holds limitless possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental in the beginning, which is why we have actually assembled this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the proper course to effective sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to very great. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the information you will need to choose the correct blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely adequate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Installing a blade into a saw:

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure a precise result every time.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Piercing.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is pushed down and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use effectively.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to preserve a constant and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with ought to face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push gently versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to guide the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool down.

Troubleshooting:.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly regular and practise makes best. However, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make certain you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal mix.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability prior to you purchase.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Fixing:.

Defining and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points). If you wish to move a more intricate style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Then prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Beginning to Saw:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Save this for later on.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a constant but gentle pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
Submit to end up.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a newbie.

Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Tools for Piercing: There are various methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical, the most important thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big variety of different attachments including drill bits.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to relax. Dont be lured to force the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

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