A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will just take standard size blades as they are offered.

There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase advanced variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into difficult areas.

Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the proper course to successful sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely great. The table listed below consists of all the information you will require to select the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly sufficient. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly helping to make sure a precise outcome whenever.

Fixing:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to very great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial range of different accessories including drill bits.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points).

Tools for Piercing: There are several methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the exact same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright, the most essential thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Likewise do not be lured to force the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a novice.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability prior to you purchase.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to preserve a gentle and constant action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be hard or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.

The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is pushed down and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to utilize efficiently.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely typical and practise makes best. However, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and permit the tools to cool off.

Piercing.

Fixing:.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage should face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push carefully against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

Conserve this for later on.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Beginning to Saw:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a mild but constant pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again.
Submit to complete.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

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