A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first significant tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the improvement of a simple sheet of metal into something totally various and holds endless possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental initially, which is why we have created this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the right path to successful sawing whenever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Another choice you need to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.

Sawing

There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally fine. The table below consists of all the information you will require to select the proper blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely appropriate. However, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Installing a blade into a saw:

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big variety of different attachments including drill bits.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to assist the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for exclusively that function. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely assisting to ensure an accurate result every time.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a beginner.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Repairing:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability before you buy.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to relax. Do not be lured to force the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help alleviate the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to maintain a stable and mild action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous however gentle pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again.
Submit to finish.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage must face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinctive ping to show the stress is appropriate. If you do not hear the ping merely reverse and repeat the procedure once again till its. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Repairing:.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly regular and practise makes best. However, examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make certain you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal mix.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pushed down and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to use efficiently.

Conserve this for later on.

Beginning to Saw:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.

Piercing.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points).

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