A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

https://www.cooksongold.com/blog/learn/a-guide-to-sawing-piercing/

Saw piercing is likely to be one of the very first major tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the first action in the improvement of a basic sheet of metal into something totally different and holds unlimited possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the correct path to effective sawing every time.

There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into tough areas.

When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will just take basic size blades as they are offered.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to extremely fine. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table below consists of all the information you will require to select the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely appropriate. Nevertheless, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize frequently.

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Installing a blade into a saw:

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a mild however continuous pressure until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
File to end up.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points). If you wish to move a more complex design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular. Then prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Once you have re-traced the style onto the metal, eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pushed down and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely regular and practise makes best. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal combination.

Save this for later.

The drill keeps moving around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help reduce the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to keep a gentle and constant action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.

Fixing:.

Troubleshooting:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a novice.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to unwind. Likewise do not be tempted to force the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage ought to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinctive ping to show the stress is right. If you do not hear the ping simply undo and duplicate the procedure once again until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Piercing.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability before you purchase.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Tools for Piercing: There are numerous various methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the exact same. The most essential thing to bear in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly helping to guarantee an accurate result every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a broad range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Starting to Saw:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *