A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

Another decision you require to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the correct course to successful sawing every time.

There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into tough locations.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to incredibly great. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the details you will require to pick the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely appropriate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Installing a blade into a saw:

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their suitability before you buy.

Conserve this for later.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool down.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Likewise dont be lured to require the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help relieve the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to preserve a gentle and consistent action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to make sure an exact outcome every time.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. Nevertheless, check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a beginner.

Troubleshooting:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle need to face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push gently against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for an unique ping to reveal the stress is proper. If you dont hear the ping just undo and repeat the process again until its. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Tools for Piercing: There are several methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the same. The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a constant but gentle pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again once sawing is total.
File to complete.

Fixing:.

Defining and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you desire to transfer a more complicated style onto metal. Then prior to transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Once you have re-traced the design onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to use successfully.

Piercing.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Starting to Saw:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of different attachments including drill bits.

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