A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.

Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the proper course to successful sawing every time.

There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase advanced variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into tough areas.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely great. The table below contains all the information you will require to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly sufficient. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Setting up a blade into a saw:

The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points). If you wish to transfer a more complicated style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Before transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have re-traced the design onto the metal.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their viability prior to you purchase.

Save this for later on.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is pressed down and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Piercing.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and try to unwind. Also dont be lured to force the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a gentle however continuous pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
File to finish.

Beginning to Saw:.

Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle need to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push carefully against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a novice.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, check the stress of your blade for slackness and make certain you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Fixing:.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for exclusively that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely assisting to guarantee an accurate outcome whenever.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

Troubleshooting:.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool off.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help ease the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to preserve a mild and consistent action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

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