Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the appropriate course to successful sawing every time.
There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into difficult locations.
When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general function size for little scale projects, however the option is down to individual preference.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the details you will need to select the appropriate blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely sufficient. Nevertheless, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Tools for Piercing: There are lots of different methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the same. The most important thing to bear in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as turn the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but gentle pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again once sawing is complete.
Submit to finish.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a newbie.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge series of various accessories consisting of drill bits.
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My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their viability before you buy.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to maintain a constant and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely regular and practise makes ideal. Inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal combination.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely helping to make sure an exact outcome each time.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and permit the tools to cool off.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.
Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be hard or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage need to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
Starting to Saw:.
The drill keeps walking around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to assist the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Likewise dont be tempted to force the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.