A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general purpose size for little scale projects, however the option is down to personal choice.

Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the very first major tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the very first step in the change of an easy sheet of metal into something totally different and holds unlimited possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the right path to successful sawing each time.

When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.

There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into hard locations.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to very great. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table below consists of all the information you will need to select the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly sufficient. Nevertheless, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Installing a blade into a saw:

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is lowered and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.

Defining and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with 2 points). If you wish to move a more complex style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Before transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with need to face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push carefully against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find an unique ping to reveal the stress is appropriate. If you do not hear the ping simply reverse and repeat the process again till its. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool down.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a beginner.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Repairing:.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to very fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Beginning to Saw:.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to preserve a stable and gentle action.
Once the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an accurate result whenever.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely typical and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal mix.

Troubleshooting:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is right and try to unwind. Do not be tempted to require the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial series of different accessories including drill bits.

Conserve this for later.

Piercing.

Tools for Piercing: There are several methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical, the most important thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a gentle but constant pressure until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again when sawing is complete.
File to finish.

The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to assist the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their viability before you purchase.

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