Saw piercing is likely to be among the very first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the improvement of an easy sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds limitless possibilities. Although many of us recognize with the concept of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental in the beginning, which is why we have actually created this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the right course to effective sawing every time.
There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire advanced versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into difficult locations.
Another choice you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table below contains all the details you will require to choose the right blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly appropriate. However, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Setting up a blade into a saw:
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with ought to face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinctive ping to show the tension is correct. If you dont hear the ping simply reverse and duplicate the process again up until its right. (Failure to protect your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Beginning to Saw:.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a beginner.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to use successfully.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to keep a mild and consistent action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.
Tools for Piercing: There are many various methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Save this for later on.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool off.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their viability before you purchase.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and push down with a continuous however mild pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again when sawing is total.
File to end up.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely assisting to ensure an accurate result whenever.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and try to unwind. Also dont be tempted to require the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly normal and practise makes perfect. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal combination.