There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to buy advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into tough locations.
When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will just take standard size blades as they are offered.
Saw piercing is most likely to be among the very first major jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the very first step in the transformation of an easy sheet of metal into something totally various and holds unlimited possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the right path to successful sawing every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good basic function size for small scale tasks, however the choice is down to personal choice.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally fine. The table listed below consists of all the info you will require to select the appropriate blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely adequate. However, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
Starting to Saw:.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Defining and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you want to move a more complicated style onto metal. Prior to transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have re-traced the style onto the metal.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability before you purchase.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and enable the tools to cool down.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pressed down and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly typical and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal mix.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle must face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for an unique ping to show the tension is appropriate. If you do not hear the ping just reverse and duplicate the process once again till its ideal. (Failure to secure your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a beginner.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big series of different accessories consisting of drill bits.
The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Save this for later on.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to extremely great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist alleviate the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to keep a constant and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and push down with a mild however constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again as soon as sawing is complete.
File to complete.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely helping to make sure a precise outcome whenever.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Likewise dont be lured to require the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to assist the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.
Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.