Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic purpose size for small scale projects, however the choice is down to individual preference.
Another choice you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will just take standard size blades as they are offered.
Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the first significant tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the first action in the change of a basic sheet of metal into something totally various and holds endless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the correct course to effective sawing every time.
There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to very fine. The table below includes all the info you will require to select the correct blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly appropriate. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Installing a blade into a saw:
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big variety of various accessories including drill bits.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly regular and practise makes ideal. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the correct blade size/metal combination.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely helping to ensure an accurate outcome every time.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again as soon as sawing is complete.
File to finish.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to a location which would otherwise be tough or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle ought to face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for an unique ping to reveal the tension is right. If you dont hear the ping just reverse and repeat the process once again until its best. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Beginning to Saw:.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool off.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist ease the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to keep a constant and mild action.
Once the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a newbie.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
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Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points).
The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability before you purchase.
The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and try to unwind. Do not be lured to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.