Another choice you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.
Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the correct path to successful sawing every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general purpose size for little scale projects, however the choice is down to personal choice.
There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. The table listed below contains all the information you will need to select the correct blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely sufficient. However, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Setting up a blade into a saw:
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to relax. Also do not be lured to force the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points). If you desire to transfer a more complex design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Then before transferring to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will appear the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. When you have re-traced the design onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage ought to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and allow the tools to cool off.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a newbie.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big variety of different accessories including drill bits.
The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability prior to you purchase.
Beginning to Saw:.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely regular and practise makes best. Inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal combination.
Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.
When your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but mild pressure till all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again once sawing is total.
File to finish.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that purpose. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to make sure a precise result every time.
The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist relieve the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to keep a consistent and mild action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
Save this for later.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.