A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general purpose size for little scale projects, however the option is down to individual choice.

Sawing

There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a range of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into tough areas.

Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the proper path to successful sawing every time.

Another choice you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally great. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the info you will need to select the right blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine must be completely appropriate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to ensure a precise result each time.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with should face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push gently versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big series of various accessories consisting of drill bits.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly regular and practise makes ideal. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal mix.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a beginner.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points).

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Piercing.

Beginning to Saw:.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to preserve a mild and consistent action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also prone to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a gentle however continuous pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
File to finish.

Save this for later on.

Repairing:.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Fixing:.

The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use effectively.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and enable the tools to cool down.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to relax. Do not be lured to require the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability before you buy.

The drill keeps moving around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to direct the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

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